Deep Look on Skin Aging | Causes and Treatment
What is the normal state of the skin?
The skin anatomy consists of 3 layers; Epidermis, the top layer, Dermis, the middle layer and Hypodermis, the bottom fatty layer. (Skin: Layers, Structure and Function, 2022)
The epidermis is the outer layer that you can see and touch. Keratin, a protein inside skin cells, makes up the skin cells and, along with other proteins, sticks together to form this layer. The epidermis has many functions, including: Hydration, Producing new skin cells, Protection from pathogens and giving skin color.
The dermis is the thickest layer of the skin. The dermis layer is made up of connective tissue that have collagen; which is a protein that makes skin cells strong and resilient. Another protein found in the dermis, elastin, keeps skin flexible. It also helps stretched skin regain its shape. These proteins are bind to Hyaluronic acid to help form cartilage (connective tissue). It also has many important functions including, hair growth, oil production, Supplying blood, feeling different sensations and producing sweat.
The bottom layer of skin, or hypodermis, is the fatty layer, It has crucial functions as well, such as, storing energy, connecting the dermis layer of your skin to your muscles and bones, insulating your body and protecting your body from harm.
Given the previous points, both the epidermis and dermis layers are mainly responsible for retaining and maintaining moisture and hydration of the skin. This is due to the presence of hyaluronic acid. It is the main component of what gives your skin structure, and is responsible for that plump and hydrated look. (Hyaluronic Acid: Skin Benefits, Products to Use, and More, 2022).
What causes skin aging?
Skin aging is characterized by features such as wrinkling, loss of elasticity, laxity, and rough-textured appearance. These characteristics occur as a result of suffering from both intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors for a long time.
· Intrinsic ageing
Intrinsic ageing is the natural biological process of ageing that everyone experiences as time goes by. Senescence, oxidation stress and changes in hormones levels are all examples of intrinsic factors that cause skin ages.
Overtime, skin cells reach senescence; which means that cells are viable but unable to divide or grow. This change causes skin cells to make faulty responses to different environmental factors and this eventually leads to the deterioration of them. When corneal cells deteriorate, they are unable to maintain the Stratum Corneum (outer most layer of the epidermis). Therefore skin ageing features start to appear.
Moreover, Oxidation stress; which is the continuous formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) also plays a role in accelerating the skin ageing. Free radicals and other ROS are derived from normal essential metabolic processes in the human body. (Lobo, V et al. "Free Radicals, Antioxidants And Functional Foods: Impact On Human Health"). These free radicals are always missing an electron and are in unstable structure. Hence, they steal electrons from the cell. This process is called oxidation and its repetition is oxidative stress. Skin cells deteriorate as a result of damaged cell membrane, DNA or its proteins.
Lastly is the change in hormone levels. Estrogen is a vital hormone when it comes to healthy skin. Estrogen insufficiency decreases defense against oxidative stress; skin becomes thinner with less collagen, decreased elasticity, increased wrinkling, increased dryness and reduced vascularity. (Thornton, M. Julie. "Estrogens And Aging Skin".) Estrogen levels in the body starts to decline at 30, therefore wrinkles, fine lines and sagging skin may be more visible.
· Extrinsic ageing:
Extrinsic aging describes the impact our environment and other preventable factors have on our skin’s aging process. Sun exposure, smoking, hydration, diet, skin care products and more contribute to extrinsic aging. ("Different Types Of Skin Aging: Intrinsic Aging Vs. Extrinsic Aging").
Photo ageing refers to the damage to the skin caused by exposure to sunlight and ultraviolet (UV) light. UVB rays can be absorbed by the epidermal layer of the skin, altering its structure as it damages the DNA in keratinocytes and other immune cells. This slows down the Stratum Corneum turnover rate leaving the skin with rough texture and dullness. UVA rays can penetrate as deep to reach the dermis layer. UVA rays generate reactive oxygen species (ROS) and induce oxidative stress that contribute to the dehydration and damage to the skin causing wrinkles, fine lines and loss of elasticity to appear. (The Structural Changes in Aging Skin, feat. Dr. Claudia Aguirre. [video]).
Other extrinsic factors that contributes to ageing skin are smoking, poor nutrition and living in polluted and dry areas. Antioxidants are essential defense shields that fight against oxidative stress and other harmful attacks on body cells. Abusing smoking and alcohol along with having poor diet and exposure to pollution overwhelms existing antioxidants and causes a subsequent decrease in their levels. Moreover, living in a dry climate can also play a role in accelerating the rate of skin ageing. Low humidity climates raise the rate of trans-epidermal water loss which occurs when water passes through the skin's layers into the air, where it evaporates. This causes dehydration to the skin which leads to premature aging and the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
Anatomy of a wrinkle:
At the surface, the epidermis becomes thinner. As a result of this depletion, the skin loses some of its integrity, flexibility and strength, giving way to the formation of wrinkles, which is one of the first visible signs of the skin’s ageing that consumers want to erase.
A wrinkle is a fold in the skin on the face. In the deepest part of the wrinkle reduced GAG synthesis is pronounced as well as reduced collagen and elastin compared to the walls. (The Structural Changes in Aging Skin, feat. Dr. Claudia Aguirre. [video]).
How can we control the skin aging?
As a consequence of the exposure to the given factors, the skin starts to age prematurely and wrinkles, fine lines and sun spots become more visible. Fortunately, improving the lifestyle and introducing anti-ageing products to the skincare routine can slow down the ageing process and restore its smoothness and plumpness.
A key ingredient in anti-ageing products is the Hyaluronic Acid (HA). Hyaluronic acid is a multi-functioning, naturally occurring molecule found in the human body. HA has the ability to hold nearly 1,000 times its weight in water, helping to plump and moisturize the skin. Hyaluronic acid does not enter into skin cells, it exists within the epidermis between cells and mainly within the dermis where it exerts its greatest effects. HA binds to one thousand times its weight in water and also helps to regulate water transport and water content in the skin. HA is a critical component of the skin with nearly 50% of the bodies total HA content contained in the skin. (The Science Behind Hyaluronic Acid, 2022).
Being an effective antioxidant, hyaluronic acid fights against ROS and protects skin cells from deteriorating. Moreover, it also prevents trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) as it binds to water molecules and locks it into the skin to restore hydration and plumpness. That’s why products that have hyaluronic acid reduce signs of ageing on the skin.
There are multiple types of hyaluronic acid; Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, Sodium hyaluronate and Sodium acetylated hyaluronate. Each penetrate the skin to a certain extent and each is suitable for a certain type of skin
1. The hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is hyaluronic acid that has been broken down into elements small enough to penetrate the skin. It’s moisturizing, but not the most moisturizing option, so it’s best for people who have oily or combination skin, since these skin types want to avoid over-moisturizing.
2. Sodium hyaluronate goes deeper into the skin and delivers even better results, though the effects aren’t very long lasting. Sodium hyaluronate is best for people who have normal skin, because it will allow moisture to seep in, but you don’t really need a heavy-duty, long-lasting effect. This is the ingredient you’ll likely find in serums.
3. Sodium acetylated hyaluronate has the benefits of sodium hyaluronate but with longer-lasting results. It’s best for people who need moisture, such as those with dry skin, those who live in dry climates, or those looking for a product for the dry winter months.
When choosing an anti-ageing product with hyaluronic acid in it, the molecular weight of HA must be considered. Products with lower molecular weight are able to penetrate the skin deeply and exert its greatest effects.
One of the most effective technologies of wrinkle correction is the Ultra Filling Spheres™ technology. It is based on the ability of dehydrated and cross-linked spheres to penetrate the upper layers of the epidermis and to absorb the water that evaporates from the deep dermis. Thanks to their hygroscopic properties, the volume of the spheres increases rapidly. Thus inflated, they tighten the skin, smoothing out wrinkles and leaving an elastic skin surface with long lasting hydration. ("Ultra Filling Spheres™ – The Ultimate Next Generation Wrinkle Corrector").
The ultra-filling spheres are composed of 2 components; hyaluronic acid of low molecular weight and Konjac of a high molecular weight. The cross linking of both form small spheres which after drying, are transformed into Ultra Filling Spheres™. These microspheres are dehydrated and reduced in size magnificently, therefore they are able to swell and regain their initial volume as they meet water.
How does Ultra Filling Spheres technology act on the skin?
1. The Ultra filling spheres penetrate deep as they have low molecular weight.
2. They especially target the zones where there is a lack of dermal substance (GAG).
3. They gain water from the dermal layer of the skin as well as from the surface of the skin (stratum carenum).
4. They swell and increase in volume rapidly, filling the lacking substances and smoothing out the skin from wrinkles and fine lines.